I Surf Slow

I surf slow. I am no thrill seeker. I often pull-back rather than take a drop that feels too steep, and I’ll never forget my brother Manu calling out “go for it, its fat” to encourage me to drop into a wave I was uncertain of (For those who aren’t savvy to wave lingo, “Fat” is generally a negative term, meaning the face of the wave is not steep and thus, not very thrilling).

The promise of reward does not motivate introverts into taking risks, our brains are wired differently.

Whenever I arrive at a new break with my boyfriend Joe he checks the surf, checks the expression on my face, and more often than not begins listing off all the other times I’ve surfed similar breaks, similar waves, bigger waves – Introverts flourish in familiarity. While an extrovert gets a buzz from the unknown, and will jump straight off the rocks with a “yew” – we introverts need to spend a bit more time sitting out the back watching the sets come through before we’re ready to join the line up. I sit wide. Always.

I surf slow. I started small. I take my time. And now I flow.

If you are an introvert, I encourage you to paddle out. I still find myself wide-eyed and horrified occasionally, but most of the time I’m immersed in that immense quiet and presence that only comes with a long flowing point break glide.

Wearing locally made Selkie Rashie  and a genuine hand-printed Batik Sarong, picked up during a particularly adventurous surf-trip in Indo.  More on Selkie coming soon.


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